July 31, 2013

Looking Back Ten Years To The Date

Today is the Feast of St Ignatius, July 31, 2013
Ten years ago I was based in Iraq in the opening phase of the Iraq War and wrote of my experiences on that day. Though I have shared the writing with a few, I have not before published it on my blog.

Reading it today made me think back to the issues we faced that summer. Sadaam had been driven from power but not yet captured.  Decisions were made by the Coalition Provisional Authority, largely US military and diplomats. The political situation that later morphed into sectorial violence was still in the future and not foreseen as a matter of great concern.   

It is too early by far to answer so many questions that rightfully will be dealt with by historians. The happenings which I wrote about that day are simply a mirror into one day in that conflict as seen through my eyes.

  

31 July 2003
 
On the Feast Day of St Ignatius,
Amara, Iraq, close to the Iranian border.


Ignatius told us to be in service for others; I think we met that test today. What was starting out to be a "normal day at the office” in Amara turned out to be anything but that.

British Intel advised us early in the morning that there were several hundred refugees on or near the border with Iran in a very isolated area.

We filled all available space in our transport with bottled water, joined our two vehicles with two British Armored vehicles and about an hour later and having traveled through the most in-hospitable areas we arrived at what only can be described as a copy of Ft Zindernuff from Beau Geste.





Much like the opening scene from the movie it was deserted but had not long in the past been the border control point for the Iraqi forces and later for squatter refugees.

There was a scribbled Arabic message dated from a few days ago asking for God’s help. I hope he heard it.

We climbed to the crenellated parapets and used binoculars to stare at the Iranians about 500 m away.  It was just like my experience years back at the Berlin Wall – they stared back at us.

Funny in a way until realizing there were armed British soldiers in our party, the equally well armed Iranians began to wave flags and other gestures to demonstrate that they had no sense of humor.




This picture shows me with Sgt Major and the fort over my right shoulder is in Iran and an identical fort. Such are border areas in the post-Iraqi army period. Largely unpopulated, the British Armored Division, Blues and Royals, patrol but the border is long.


One has to wonder what matter of folk cross unimpeded from Iran and for what purpose.
  
Not wishing to push the matter further, we re-boarded the vehicles and withdrew out of site of the Iranians. I took one of our civilian cars and went forward with and a civilian driver / translator (Farsi speaking) to see if they would be reasonable; they were not so it appeared that all had been in vain and once again we left the border area.

A few miles up road we came across four Iranians who said they were religious refugees heading to Kabala. One claimed to be from Qerta in Pakistan and another from Khormamabad in Iran. He was most impressed when I told him I had visited the clinic there (25 years ago I think). 

They drank water copiously and told us there were refugees hiding in the hills a few miles back up the ravine. The lead army vehicle along with and one of mine drove forward to recon and as we crossed a dried stream bed, there they were: hundreds of them. Suddenly it was as if they all knew we were there and they descended on us.

The Major ordered me to stay with him and Sergeant Major so we could sort out the sick from the dying. Some were terribly dehydrated but responded quickly to fluids and to a mist of cold water from a pump gadget I had bought in St Pete that until then had been the object of laughter! Nothing like a spray of fine cold mist on a parched face – got me kissed by a variety of scratchy-faced old men!

We had sent one vehicle back to round up transport of cars, lorries and whatever we could find and when they came we trucked everyone out of the ravines down to an oasis whose Sheikh generously let them stay (after accepting a little financial encouragement from us).




Under a tree and next to a muddy rivulet I held an impromptu emergency sick call.


One chap thought he had broken his leg and I mused how funny it would be to call on my satellite phone to my old roommate, an orthopopd from Princeton, and let him consult. Gratefully, I came to the conclusion it was not broken and the magic spray again did its job. Miraculously someone in our party had powdered Gatorade and the result of that to some of the elderly was amazing. Kudos to the U of Florida Pharmacy School for developing it though I bet they never guessed this use.

Horribly, the people we had found out told us that bandits in the hills had taken all their money –amazing that people will rob refugees but they are the most vulnerable. We left them with all the water and a few dollars and the promise from the Sheikh – and a lot of prayers from me last night.

Amazingly the column commander said that the Household Cavalry and the Light Dragoons had discovered a swimming hole not far from where we were –a spring fed paradise with cool water. He had the GPS coordinates. Off we went, my Iraqi driver thinking we had all become victims of the heat and the Brits and me hoping that this was not a joke.

The heat shimmering off the desert floor and there it was!




Stripping down, boots off, diving in – what an amazing feeling – in the middle of nowhere – swimming in the most refreshingly cool water that there was on this planet.  Surreal!

We left Sgt Major on top with a rope to get us out and then later switched him with another noncom.

I will never forget it and God bless the Household Cavalry – I owe them a beer.

I thought for a moment what a paradigm shift it is for them to be riding on horseback next to HM the Queen one day and permanently patrolling a very unfriendly border in this hellish place the next.

The clothes put back on; back we came to Amara and the de jure dinner of kebobs.

It was a good day and glad I remembered Ignatius on his day. We had done as he instructed.

Today is Friday – it is quiet in Amara and I am at British HQ to use the Internet. I miss all of you. Keep these people in your prayers.

A.M.D.G.

Thomas

Amara, Iraq

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